Day 4 – Bay of Islands

I got up this morning with a desire to get out on the water and see some of the Bay of (144) Islands. After a quick look at another waterfall (yes we are getting over them), we headed to the wharf for the 11.15am fast ferry to Russell.

Another touristy town, but very picturesque, nestled in a bay opposite Paihia, but still on the mainland. We learnt later that Russell used to be further south AND the capital of New Zealand! We had a lovely walk along the pebbled beach, around a headland, up into the rainforest to Flagstaff Lookout. An amazing view over the Bay of Islands and a story about how the original flagstaff had been destroyed and re-erected countless times due to the British entering a partnership with the Maori, then only flying the British flag.

Fresh New Zealand tarahiki and chips was Emily’s request for lunch and much appreciated by all. Very nice “fush and chups” and we were all well sated for the afternoon boat tour. From Russell, the tour boat took us to another island, Urupukapuka, where we were let off in Otehei Bay for 30 minutes. An interesting story about how the locals have replanted and revegetated the land after it was cleared and used for farming for many years. Another stony beach and quick and icy swim for Liam and I, then back on the boat.

Out to another tourist destination – the “hole in the rock” – an arch in another island, Motukokako, which was our most north-eastern point of the tour. We were lucky and the weather was good enough for the boat to go through the arch. The water was a bit rougher out there, but not too bad, and the view back into the Bay of Islands was worth it. The boat’s captain provided an interesting commentary as he took us more slowly back around the islands, with snippets of Maori and English history and current information too.

We arrived back at Paihia wharf for a fast paced walk back to our accommodation to get out of our bathers and head to Waitangi Treaty Ground for our booked Hangi and concert. Our host, John, set up the evening for us, starting with a briefing by the hangi chef about the traditional and modern hangi cooking methods.

We then wandered from the café to the Treaty House, with our nominated chiefs being challenged by Maori warriors with posturing and threatening movements which were very daunting and intimidating. The same warriors ultimately welcomed our group to the meeting house, where they provided a cultural performance of music, dance and a haka.

Back to the café for the food prepared in the hangi and some extras. Amazingly cooked lamb, pork belly and chicken; potatoes, kumara (sweet potatoes) and pumpkin. The chef also had some salads and bread prepared in the kitchen. Liam’s favourite was the potatoes, and Emily’s a form of fried bread.

My favourite was the pork belly and Colin’s the lamb. Dessert was a ginger pudding with lashings of butterscotch sauce, cream and custard in which you could see the vanilla seeds. We all left feeling as if we wouldn’t need to eat for the rest of the week.